The Languedoc along with neighbour Roussillion is currently France's most exciting and developing wine region. Twenty years ago it was responsible for much of Europe's infamous "wine lake" and little else. Today supermarket shelves stock varietals such as Syrah and Chardonnay that compete with the best of the new world for everyday drinking. When it comes to interesting bottles to accompany a fine meal then you'll find them here; not just in France, where wine is rarely imported, but also on wine lists across the globe. An added bonus is that fine wine of virtually all styles is made - red, white, rosé, aperitif/dessert and even port and sparkling wine.

Much of the credit for the early rejuvenation of the Languedoc's fine wine reputation is down to Aime Guibert's Mas de Daumas Gassac, located between Aniane and Gignac 35 Km northwest of Montpellier. Aime's first vintage was back in 1978 and his property has been coined the "Lafite" of the Languedoc, partly because the wine is more in the Bordeaux style with around 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. Being atypical for the region, and hence directly comparable with Bordeaux, certainly helped gain attention.

Today scores of grower/winemakers from all over the world have been establishing themselves - our favourites are listed below. Most of them use the region's more traditional red grape varieties – Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvédre and Cinsault. What’s making the difference is not just dedication, but also reduced yields combined with modern winemaking equipment and techniques.

In the restaurants listed here you'll find enjoyable and interesting drinking from perhaps under 15 € to the 60 € plus the regions finest now command. If you want to seek out a producer then the Carte des Meilleurs Vignerons du Languedoc et du Roussillon is all you need. It's available from the finer restaurants and tourist offices, but I've not found a way to order it on the Internet. Do remember that many producers are relatively small family operations and don’t always have the time or resources to receive visitors who just turn up. This is especially true around harvest time in late August/September.

Demand from wine shops (cavistes), restaurants and for export, or simply lack of storage space, means that many wines are not available at source. The local alternative is to seek out a caviste in the larger towns, for example in Pezenas the central Reinaldos stocks many gems and, for a shop with a web site, Le Nez dans le Verre. La Terrace du Mimosa in the square of the wine village Montpeyroux has a magnificent local selection at cellar door prices. Also look in on Au Fil de Vin in Clermont l'Herault and La Cave Gourmande in Montagnac. The nearest thing to a "wine warehouse" can be found at Mas de Saporta on the south side of junction 30 on the A9 autoroute at Montpellier, or on the outskirts of Narbonne in the same building as the La Table Saint-Créscent restaurant. Note that these outlets only stock AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) wines which means that a number of the region's finest will be absent - a subject I discuss below.

You will also find good wine shops in Montpellier and Nîmes, but some of their stocks can be heavily marked up. Trinque Fougasse in the northern suburbs of Montpellier (actually the medical area) is particularly strong on mature Languedoc wines from top estates - at a price. There will be several wines on tasting and this can make choosing a glass easier if you eat there - the simple food is sound and there's a good ambiance.

Based in Toulouse independent cavist Philippe Dorso, www.wines-and-spirits.com (English version), delivers to the north EU including the UK. As well as wines from the Languedoc and South-West, there's a broad range of french wines, spirits and champagnes.

For further factual information on Languedoc wine (in French) see Coteaux Languedoc.

For the UK market the established specialist and sole importers of several of the finest growers in the region is Mike and Liz Berry's Grand Cru Wines - use the site to get on their excellent mailing list. The Berry's are based in Provençe and also grow Grand Cru quality olive oil. For many years Mike and Liz ran the pioneering La Vigneronne in London's South Kensington.

Some of the Berry's lines including star Mas Jullien, have been taken up by Terroir Languedoc who have a very informative site.

These stars are also available, along with fine wines from all across the south of France, at Joseph Barnes Wines who have a shop in Saffron Walden in addition to on-line mail order.

Leon Stolarski Fine Wines also provide a UK service and are particularly strong in the western Languedoc, such as Minervois and Roussillon and also for more everyday wines.

For a comprehensive guide to just about all things wine in the UK start at Tom Cannavan's Wine-Pages.

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If you prefer the modern ripe fruit "new world" style of wine (Australia, Chili etc.) then you will find the majority of the wines listed in the restaurants I feature follow this mould with the exception of the finer red wines that generally have more austere tannins, especially when young. This is one reason why we are so seduced by them - they bridge old and new world wine styles, fruity wines with a bit of tannic grip and character.
For the whites expect to see local aromatic grape varieties dominate as they are better suited to the hot summer climate than the ubiquitous Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs etc. The latter are becoming more popular with growers who pick early to preserve their freshness and while they're generally inexpensive, they lack the minerality or their northern cousins.

If in doubt, ask to be guided towards wines that are fruity and avoid anything you're unfamiliar with that's more than 4 years old. Vintage is of minor importance in relation to the grower or estate that made the wine.

The best Languedoc wine list can be found at Le Mimosa. Not far behind is L'Auberge du Cedre where only ready to drink wines are listed. Both offer bargains for rare mature older vintages.

Most of the UK merchants listed above hold wine tastings. Of the Languedoc based specialists Grand Cru Wines occasionally visit the UK and host informal tastings.

To learn more about wine generally I would recommend seeking out your local wine club. I frequent the excellent and long established Charlemagne Wine Club who organise monthly tastings in West London.

The Wine Education Service go one step further and run wine courses at various levels as well as running tutored evening tastings in various central London locations.

AOC is awarded to wine areas of France where the best quality wine is made. For each area a tailored set of rules are developed covering such aspect as the land approved for AOC vineyards, the grapes that can be grown, the yield and the grape blends used to make the wine (the cépage) etc. I'm not going to get into the merits or otherwise of such a system other than to say it's restrictive and provides very little protection against encountering some very average wine making.

To give an example, many estates grow the classic French varieties from other regions, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Viognier. However, wine using these varieties can only be called Vin de Pays in the Languedoc (the exception being little know Malepère that allows Cabernet). The Muscat grape is restricted by AOC to make sweet wine, yet there are some interesting dry Muscat wines that are again labelled Vin de Pays. All of this is irrespective of the quality or price of the wine.

What this all means is that it's essential to go by the name of the grower or producer of the wine. Of course this makes choosing wine as hard (or easy) as selecting a restaurant. To help I list some personal recommendation below.

From well over 10 years of holidaying the region there are a core set of growers whose wine we have stocked up with. Most of these are sited around the Herault Valley – the Coteaux du Languedoc.

Mas Julien, Jonquières – for us it was drinking the reds and whites of Olivier Jullien that signalled our conversion to the new Languedoc. Today his wines are better than ever and his sublime dry white is a perennial favourite.

Mas Bruguière, Pic St Loup – the vineyards scatted around this landmark mountain produce (relatively) lighter more elegant supple wines. Mas Bruguière is right between the Pic and the spectacular overhanging Hortus escarpment and is a consistent producer making wines that have remarkable longevity for the area while still being attractive when young. A good place to taste and buy on the spot, or for UK delivery see Yapp Brothers, the original French "country wine" pioneers.
Clos Marie, next door to L'Auberge du Cedre in Lauret, can be hard to source - use Grand Cru Wines or Joseph Barnes Wines for UK supplies.
On the south east slopes of the Pic Morties also makes some superb reds.

Font Caude, Montpeyroux – Alain Charabon’s hand crafted wines need bottle age to help them unwind their elegant lingering flavours. This is understated wine that needs one’s full attention.

Jasse Castel, Montpeyroux – Pascal and Laurent Marcillaud produced their first vintage in 1998 and make voluptuous supple ripe reds with a grip that puts them squarely in the Languedoc.

Domaine Aupilhac, Montpeyroux – like Olivier Jullien above an established name in the area. Sylvain Fadat's Le Carignan is a rich and ripe groundbreaking classic that everyone should try. He shows what can be done with an everyday grape through old vines, controlled yields and some alchemy in his cellar.

Domaine Sainte Rose – is the most informative wine estate web site I've seen. This exciting renovation by Charles and Ruth Simpson had their first vintage is 2002 and the wines are much more than promising. La Garrigue is their red based on Syrah and Grenache, and they also make excellent Chardonnays. UK delivery is a superb service and is the best Languedoc buy in the UK.

Domaine Ollier Taillefer in Fos is our pick of the very reliable Faugères Appelation.

Domaine Rimbert in Berlou is a rising star in the St Chinian Appelation. The wines have a minerally elegance that brilliantly express the Schist (shale and clay) soil.

Grange des Peres – a neighbour of Mas de Daumas Gassac, Laurent Vaillé has been making wine here since 1992. Superb red and a rare white that exhibit exquisite balance and more terroir than its famous neighbour