Firstly note that Le Temps de Vivre is situated on the west side of the A75 - leave at the Soubes junction. Once you get that far you'll find it well sign posted. Don't be put off by the modern simple building, once inside there's an attractive dining area beyond which is a glazed terrace that offers an extraordinary view of the pine forests and limestone crags that border the great Larzac plateau.

Laurent Arrazat was previously number 2 at the prestigious Jardin de Sens in Montpellier. Our lunch started with a young roquette salad with bits of quail and dried jambon, and a seared brown trout on a base of young leaf salad, orange and onion. Dorade went surprisingly well with apple puree, julienne of leak and a beurre blanc sauce. Lamb on a pastry biscuit topped with confit of aubergine and tomato was full of flavour. Cheese was passable. A crème brûlée of potimarron (pumpkin) was simple and interesting while a tarte fine au pommes with vanilla ice had been reheated.

Overall the dishes kept things simple by focussing on three key ingredients. The menu was only 26 € so the noted short cuts perhaps had some justification. The wine list covers the spectrum of local growers wines but the price of the rising stars is steep and understandably the wines are young. Nevertheless, there are bargains to be found such as the local La Jasse Castel.

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