As you drive through the wooded scrubland south east of Tornac you soon come across Le Ranquet that proudly announces itself as a 4* hotel, although with all the bedrooms sited in the grounds it actually feels more like a restaurant. A colourful shaded conservatory extends the dining room away from the stone Mas and extensive bric-brac creates a pleasant informal atmosphere. This is just as well as the staff stay in the background.

Sliced artichokes, cubed tomato and tiny grilled sardines with a balsamic dressing and olive oil was excellent. Lapin fermier with white courgette and a sage sauce thickened with the liver was simple, skilfully cooked and succulent. A spring roll of pelardon cheese mixed with sweated vegetables and a green salad was an enjoyable change to the cheese board. A Madeleine with a plum sauce for dipping and yoghurt ice cream was highly enjoyable and not too sweet.

A very pleasant lunch. Our fellow diners had chosen the 40 € "les yeux ferme" (surprise menu) and seemed to be enjoying the foie gras and lamb creations. The wine list is very reasonably priced and a white Pic St. Loup went down well. Disappointingly only one wine from the neighbouring Baruel estate was listed. Coffee, petits fours and a walk round the splendid herb garden in the grounds completed a very pleasant lunch. Being a hotel there is a small boutique shop (mainly stoked with food items) that at least was very unstuffy.

We returned for Sunday lunch on a cloudless June day and sampled the les yeux ferme surprise menu. Being busier (but far from full) made for a better atmosphere. Another good recommendation from Jonathan Meades. Cusinière Anne Majoural also runs what seem like interesting cookery weeks of weekends. See www.ranquet.com for details.

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