Web site www.laraffinerie.com, especially for directions. Parking is easy.

Sulphur is an essential product to stabilise wine. These days with most wines one doesn't notice, but not that long ago over sulphuring, and the headaches it caused, was rife. This may explain why La Raffiniere doesn't seem to have been a sulphur factory for some time. What was an industrial space in now a contemporary dining space, triangular in shape and balanced with a high ceiling. Along one side runs the bar that sits below rusty and stained remnants of industrial ironwork. The front overlooks the canal. While big cities have been using wharf buildings for restaurants for some time, it's so out of kilter for the Languedoc it's refreshing.

The formula here makes taking three courses (23€) irresistible. We started with a succulent potato, cep and smoked bacon "presse" plus deep fried shredded Rascasse with mashed avocado and a curry sauce. Next cabbage stuffed with pied de cochon with mash was tasty while pot au feu resting on mash was spiked with some interesting tastes. For dessert a chestnut crème caramel came with a heady Muscat sorbet and a marmalade of citrus fruits, brioch toast and macaroon glace was peel heaven.

This is sound contemporary cooking and one of the best gourmet on a budget establishment on these pages. The dishes don't have the thrusting flavours as Chez Philippe, the style here is elegance and we find the desserts superior and more imaginative. The short wine list is very keenly priced.

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