A new opening early in 2005 with two chefs, one from Paris (hotel Bristol) and the other Bordeaux, is clearly intent on making an impact in the south. In less than 5 years Beziers now has three worthy restaurants with this latest arrival.

A three course lunch (choice of two dishes for each course) includes a glass of wine, nibbles and coffee for just 28 €. Sliced beef tomato with crab and an avocado cream was delicate and refreshing, as were sardines on a slightly sweet seeded roll and roasted cherry tomatoes. Hake on a bed of spinach was brilliantly fresh and incorporated a crisp transparent pastry strip connected to the skin - a simple but superb dish. By contrast, quail baked on a pic with peas, asparagus and a baked fig sauce was both rustic and refined at the same time.

Desserts continued the high standard. Pineapple presented five ways, including dipped in chocolate, was topped  with pino colada sorbet. What I can only describe as a cherry clafoutis made with semolina along with cherry and milk ice and cherry compote was delicious.

The wine list is already extensive and not at all greedy. Quite a lunch - we shall be returning to tackle the carte.

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