We first dined here before back in October 1993, a mid-week lunch after an ascent of the Pic St. Loup. I recall the meal was a tad heavy and lacked a little refinement, plus the spacious dining room was in need of more dining companions. Since then Georges Rousset has handed over the kitchen to son Thierry and is now imposing his charming and relaxed personality on the diners. We had an enjoyable meal despite the leisurely pace necessitated by a large party and several other tables of eager diners, we had after all booked late that day.

For amuse-bouche taster a lobster mousse was gutsy and interesting. The menu offers two dishes (plus cheese and dessert) for 37 € and the four dishes we indulged in were sandre with hazelnuts, morels and chick peas - a star; semi salted salt cod with a saffron sauce and clam ravioli made with black cuttlefish ink; beef in a deep red wine sauce with rosti and bone marrow; and to complete the quartet a truffeled pigs trotter affair that was certainly fine but disappointingly refined. Vegetables were not neglected with stuffed tomato, creamed turnip spaghetti and a layered aubergine, onion and courgette bake were interesting and not over elaborate. The dessert list is bold and highly imaginative with baked banana with liquorice ice cream being one of the more conservative choices. A mass of tiny tasty myrtilles in a large brandy snap basket with cinnamon ice was simple but super. Individual creme brêlées lacked definition but the petit fours were better.

The cave could stock up with more examples of the Herault and other local wonders, but nevertheless we found a great all round red - Dom. Clovallon Pinot Noir at a bargain 20 €. Overall a splendid meal with plenty of interest, but this is a dining room that needs plenty of companions to give it atmosphere.

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