La Chassagnette
13200 Le Sambuc. South of Arles. 04 90 97 26 96
100 € (lunch). June 2005

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Note there has been a chef change since our visit.

Firstly directions. La Chassagnette is in the middle of the flat Camargue close to the Rhone south of Arles. Take the D37 on the west side of the Rhone at Arles and turn left on the D36. Look out for a small sign in the grass on the right and you've arrived.

Before entering the restaurant take a walk round the organic garden - the diversity of vegetables, herbs and edible flowers is extraordinary. Seating is either outside under a canopy of vines or in the spacious and cool ranch style dining rooms. There is no menu, and clearly what arrives is going to be seasonal. Toast and a jar of homous pepped up with a few spices comes as nibbles - do have their sangria made with a quality base wine.

Food arrives in waves on a tray for your party to share and of course vegetables star. An open sandwich piled with shavings of vegetables, herbs and various flowers was a sensational mosaic of flavours and a reminder of what vegetables actually taste like. Root vegetable chips and lightly deep fried carrots, courgettes and their flowers with dips were a fine start. Various small glasses of foaming creamed vegetables added variety. A courgette with its flower stuffed with brandade was splendid.

The main course was steamed mussels with squid and chorizo pieces to give it some zip. Delicious along with a large green salad to balance it. Dessert includes warm poached strawberries with blackcurrant a tuile and liquorice ice cream.

Overall a refreshingly different experience.

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