En Bonne Compagnie has a delightful location on the quay of the Canal du Midi at Homps. We arrived for a Monday dinner and were somewhat surprised that they were more or less full as the evening progressed. What would also surprise is that this French restaurant is run by a British team. Valerie Fisk out front with Craig Charlesworth in the kitchen. Craig has leant his craft in some of London's top kitchens but this hasn't gone to the head. The menu includes some classic French dishes that are all too rare in times where creative cooking seems to be everything.

A Salmon and Crab terrine was packed with flavour and hot foie gras on a bed of lentils was perfectly executed. The saucing and generosity of flavours in a classic lamb en crepinette with ceps on top of heady gratin potatoes makes one wonder why such dishes don't get more replays; one obvious reason being the skill and hard work involved. Vegetable were seasonal and freshly cooked. Desserts range from a moist apricot tart to a light descendant of bread and butter pudding. All that's missing is a wine list to complement the food, but what there is has reasonable mark ups. As En Bonne Compagnie only opens from May to mid-November most wine has presumably to be sourced afresh each season.

Refreshingly different. Do visit www.in-good-company.com and email asking to receive the monthly changing menu.

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