Graham Tigg's Languedoc Dining

I first started making notes of our dining experiences in early 1994. Why? Since the early '80s we have dined at restaurants that seek to be more than just every day establishments - as Michelin would say places worthy of a detour, or even a journey. Even the most memorable meals from those early years have been largely reduced to a few hazy recollections and a receipt. Fine dining is expensive and a branch of art that, like wine, has to be consumed to be appreciated. So for future reference and to help preserve memories I maintain this site. These days we dine out mostly in the Languedoc, hence the focus of the content.

These are personal reviews. The disadvantage in this is that you may have different tastes, likes and dislikes and, of course, coverage is limited to relatively few meals each year. A big advantage is that I can give a more consistent perspective than a team of reviewers.

To help, I would summarise our three top restaurant priorities as the quality and interest of the dishes; enthusiasm and attitude of the staff; and the value for money, at whatever price level. Behind these comes physical ambience, service and factors such as the space you rent. For wine we can be nearly as content with a carefully chosen selection of, say, 20 local wines to one that lists 100's as long as they are local wines of character.

I deliberately keep factual information, such as details of opening times, to a minimum as keeping this stuff up to date is a nightmare. Most establishments have sites with such details and I have provided links, otherwise consult a Guide Book. Either way, do always book ahead to avoid disappointment as most are seasonal and many have limited covers. If you have to cancel do let them know. No shows are a real problem and as most entries are small family concerns the loss of income is significant.

A word on photographing dishes. I tried this but found it detracts from our dining experience and probably that of other diners, so have decided against it. I also appreciate it could greatly enrich this site. The good news is that most restaurant these days provide good quality images on their web sites.

We discovered the Languedoc by accident on 3rd April 1993, renting a converted manger of a village house in Soubes (near Lodeve) through friends of a friend. Despite chilly weather and little evidence of spring we fell in love with the varied countryside, the light, the wine and the amazing Le Mimosa. This was also the age when the likes of Michel Bras (way up in the Auvergne) and Le Jardin de Sens (Montpellier) were relatively undiscovered and affordable. Wine stars such as Mas Jullien actually had wine to sell at the cellar door. We holidayed regularly for several years before eventually buying in the area - see our village at www.aspiran.com. This, of couse, explains why the entries are consolidating in the central Hérault area.

So what's changed on the dining front over those years? My observation is that until the millennium relatively little. Le Jardin de Sens may have single handedly put the Languedoc on the gastronomic map at the highest level, but the knock on effect of improving local standard has been painfully gradual. The economic reality is that a certain degree of prosperity is needed. Back in 1993 there seemed to be property for sale everywhere with no apparent buyers. Today the growth of Montpellier, the completion of the A75 autoroute, the TGV line to Nîmes, the explosion in quality wine production and an influx of home owners from outside the region have all contributed to an improving dining scene.

The opening of Chez Philippe in Marseillan in the mid-90s was a milestone. Contemporary cooking, keen pricing, sensible portions, quality wines at all price points and exuberant energy led to a healthy occupancy at every sitting. Others slowly followed in their own way, current examples being L'Entre Pots Pézenas and O-Bontemps Magalas.

A great favorite of the more traditional restaurants was Jean-Claude Fabre's family run Leonce in Florensac. The great local chef was recently involved with setting up the Bistro d'Alex in the Florensac winery. Other fine dining arrived in the shape of Cellier-Morel in Montpellier and Le Relais de Pigasse Ouveillan (sadly closed), L'Ambassade Beziers, Octopus Beziers, L'Ocre Rouge Hérépian and, most recently, de Lauzun, Gignac.

A special mention goes to the unique Auberge du Cedre. Nowhere tries to be so many things and succeeds. As for venturing out of the region, Vieux Pont, Belcastel continues to delight and be worthy of a journey.

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